Currency: Peso ($1 = about 2,000 Colombian Pesos in Feb., 2014)
Language: Spanish, I didn't meet many English-speakers
Foods to Try:
Bunuelos: Unfortunately, I didn't take a very good picture of this fried bread ball, but you will find these EVERYWHERE. Super cheap.
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| Me and my bunuelo. |
Fried Curry Balls: we found these at a great vegetarian place just off the plaza of San Jose church in Medellin
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Fresh Fruit! A full mango for 50 cents! Brilliant! You will see street vendors selling fresh, sliced fruits and fresh-blended fruit juices all over the streets. Don't hold back.
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Bandeja Paisa: a traditional dish of the Medellin valley (where they call themselves "paisas"), this dish will vanquish hunger. Arepa (see below), fried plantain, fried egg, chicharron (fried pork rind), carne asada, chorizo... what more could you want?
Ajiaco: another tradition from the Medellin valley. A thick soup with a whole cob of choclo corn, huge chunks of chicken, potatoes and a cream drizzle topping. Try to find the least touristy place you can, the soup will be better.
Arepas: a cornflour flatbread, often used to make a sandwich similar to a pita pocket. If you find a local street stand where you can see corn chunks in the dough, you've hit the jackpot. Otherwise, I liked mine best filled with delicious meat, as the arepa itself is pretty bland.
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Tamales with Hot Chocolate: weird combo, right? But it's high popularity kind of makes sense with the savory + sweet marriage.
Choclo (Corn with HUGE kernels): less flavorful than the small-kernel corn I'm used to in the MidWest, but it's very popular off the grill.
Rotisserie chicken: they'll even give you plastic gloves to eat with!
Guarapo: Fresh limeade sold in the streets. Do it! It's a bright green liquid they carry around in cups.
Coffee: It's Colombia, duh. Tinto= Black, Negro = Black with a dash of milk, Cortado = Coffee+milk
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| One hand of great beans and one of lower quality. |
Capurgana
Lodging:
Since so many tourists enter or exit the country through this town, there are plenty of hostels. Be warned that the electricity is very hit or miss (good luck finding ice cream!), since the paramilitary is in control of the power plant.
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| We stayed at the Posada del Gecko. The Italian brothers make great pizza. |
Activities:
-Hike back into Panama! There's a beautiful jungle trail you can take from Capurgana through Sapzurro and into Miel, Panama. The entrance to the hike in Capurgana is on a path on the other side of the soccer field (the locals will be able to tell you, it's very well-known). Don't be worried when the locals worn you about "tigres" (tigers). Apparently, that's what they call ocelots.
**Bring a copy of your passport to show border patrol. Also, alcohol apparently is much cheaper on the Panama side if you find yourself in need. Try the Coco Loco in Miel; an aged coconut with a bit of rum mixed in its juice. YUM!
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Turbo
Getting There:
-We took a 2.5 hour speedboat ride from Capurgana to Turbo. Suggestion: take a dramamine before this ride.
-Get in and out of this city as fast as you can! To be truthful, I didn't give this place much of a chance, but when our boat pulled up to the dock a swarm of bus and hostel peddlers were already waiting. I felt like I was in a shark tank.
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Medellin
Getting there:
-There are buses to/from Medellin from most of the major Colombian cities. There is also an international airport.
Lodging:
-Try to find a place near a metro stop, it will make your life much easier. I stayed at the Yellow House hostel, which had a great location close to the metro but far from hustle and bustle. Vincent, the frenchman owner, got up and made an included breakfast of eggs, fresh fruit, toast and juice. Loved it!
Activities:
-Real City free walking tours: Pablo is the owner, and gives a very passionate, well-explained talk.
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| Pablo breaking down Colombian history. |
-Weekend cable cars up over Santo Domingo to the Arvi Park market. The weekend market is much more interesting than the 3-hour guided walk to the lagoon (I would recommend hiking on your own).
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-Be wary during soccer games: The people of Medellin live and die by their soccer teams. Literally. Don't wear jerseys into the wrong neighborhood, be prepared for the Metro to shut down for the game, and keep your wits about you with the cops walking around with pellet guns. When I was there a fan was killed the night of a game.
-Botero: the Medellin sculptor/painter who is famous for playing with proportions. There is a plaza dedicated to him, and also a free museum.
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-Street markets: You find them on almost every major street.
Medellin has come a long way since being the most dangerous city in the ENTIRE WORLD in the 1980's. The people have definitely seen their fair share of pain and horror, but there is an unmistakable feeling of hopefulness. Walk around and enjoy!
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| A sculpture made of military knives. |
Coming soon: Bogota...
